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On the look out, Debra and Andrea - Chris Cachia Zammit |
Descriptive report
In the depths of winter, in the week
when Storm Doris gusted in, I was on a bird-watching trip to Islay – great
planning! However, we were spared the worst of Doris’s wrath, being subjected
to just a whistling wind overnight and waking to a sprinkling of snow in the
morning – our last day on the island. The Scottish mainland, though, hadn’t
been so lucky, and as we drove back from Kennacraig the snow was falling
“hypnotically” – according to our driver, somewhat worryingly.
But that’s starting at the end; to
start from the beginning: we had a calm, if rainy, two-hour ferry journey over
to Islay, spotting great northern divers, guillemots, razorbills and other
species on the water. Our base was Red Lodge, nestled in a vast wilderness of
heather, with a river running past. Andrea Hudspeth, tour organiser/wildlife
enthusiast/guide/driver/cook, spotted otter signs – the ‘jelly’ they emit from
their anal glands (mmm, lovely) on the paths leading to the river – but,
despite setting up a couple of trail cameras, we didn’t capture one on film at
the lodge, although the chaffinch and robin were only too pleased to display
themselves for one of the cameras (or possibly the food we’d left in front of
it). Another bird that showed itself well for us from our vantage point at the
lodge was a beautiful male hen harrier – which totally disrupted breakfast one
morning when the cry went up: “Hen harrier! Hen harrier!” A scramble for spectacles
(me) and binoculars (just about everyone) and a rush to the lodge’s panoramic
windows followed, and we stood entranced, watching the raptor scouring the
heather for its breakfast.
Accommodation at the lodge was warm and
comfortable, with Andrea – aided by Terry Williams of our own RSPB group (super
spotter/kitchen assistant/fount of wildlife-related knowledge – dishing up
really tasty veggie and non-veggie fare at breakfast and dinner and making packed
lunches as we were out birding all day, every day (well, apart from the
afternoon when it *really* rained, when we retreated to Bowmore’s shops for an
hour).
It wasn’t all rain, though – and that’s
the beauty of Islay: you can see the rain rolling in, but also the sunlight
following close behind it – and rainbows are a daily, sometimes hourly,
occurrence.
For anyone who has read this far
thinking, “Yes, great, but what about the ****** birds??, here’s a list of what
we saw (birds and other wildlife):
Barnacle goose,
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Bar-tailed godwit,
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Black guillemot,
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Blackbird,
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Black-headed gull,
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Brent goose,
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Brown hare,
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Buzzard,
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Chaffinch,
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Chough
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Collared dove
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Common gull
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Common scoter
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Common seals
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Common toad
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Cormorant
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Curlew
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Dunnock
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Eider
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Feral goats
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Fieldfare
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Fulmar
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Goldcrest
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Golden eagle
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Golden plover
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Goldeneye
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Goosander
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Great black-backed gull
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Great northern diver
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Great tit
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Greenfinch
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Grey heron
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Grey plover
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Grey seals
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Grey wagtail
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Greylag goose
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Hen harrier (adult male)
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Hen harrier (ringtail)
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Herring gull
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Hooded crow
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House sparrow
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Jackdaw
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Kestrel
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Lapwing
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Lesser black-backed gull
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Linnet
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Long-tailed duck
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Mallard
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Meadow pipit
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Mistle thrush
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Mute swan
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Otter
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Oystercatcher
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Peregrine
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Pintail
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Purple sandpiper
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Raven
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Razorbill
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Red deer
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Red-breasted merganser
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Redshank
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Redwing
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Ringed plover
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Robin
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Roe deer
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Rook
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Shag
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Shelduck
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Skylark
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Snipe
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Song thrush
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Sparrowhawk
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Starling
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Stonechat
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Teal
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Tufted duck
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Turnstone
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Twite
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White-fronted goose
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Whooper swan
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Wigeon
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Winter moth
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Wren
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Scouring the sea - Chris Cachia Zammit |
And here’s a link to Aquila Ecology’s
interactive trip report:
We didn’t have to work hard to see all
this wildlife; we spent our days driving leisurely around the island, either
‘spotting’ from the car and then pulling over for a closer look, or driving to
a pre-decided spot, often along the coast, and spending some time scanning the
waves. Both techniques paid off handsomely, thanks to our guides’ previous
visits to the island and their general enthusiasm for and knowledge of the
local wildlife.
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Golden eagle - Chris Cachia Zammit |
My highlight from the first technique
was also my 100th bird for the year: a golden eagle riding the
thermals by a distant mast on a hilltop. We stopped for a while to watch it and
then drove on, rounding a bend and seeing it again, near where we’d planned to
stop and look for choughs. They weren’t around but, hunkered down on a
hillside, a juvenile eagle was being harassed by a pair of ravens – bonus!
As for the second technique, well, that
brought about a magical encounter – although we had to visit the spot a couple
of times and wait patiently for a long time (it’s not always easy, this
wildlife-watching lark). Finally, on the penultimate stop of our last day, at
Bunnahabhain, with the snow-covered Paps of Jura to our right, Terry whispered
that he’d spotted an otter swimming in the sea, quite close to shore.
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Otter - Terry Williams with a smartphone via his
scope – impressive use of technology |
I
eventually trained my bins on it, and it put on quite a show, swimming along
parallel to the shore, surfacing then submerging, and finally came onto the
rocky beach to eat dinner, a shore crab. It stayed for a while and then slid
back into the water and disappeared, and we set off for our last stop before
boarding the ferry back to the mainland with a spring in our steps and a song
in our hearts (just me?).
A note about the RSPB sites on Islay
There are two RSPB sites on Islay, The
Oa and Loch Gruinart. The former is a windswept clifftop, offering a good circular
walk to the American Monument (which commemorates the loss of two troop ships
in 1918) and down the other side, and Andrea, Chris Cachia Zammit and I saw
fulmars on the opposite cliff, feral goats just below us, a pair of ravens,
Highland cattle, a large flock of twite and other bird species.
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Andrea & Chris picking up rubbish - Debra Williams |
Terry had
stayed in the car park with his scope and bins, observing that we were on a
birding holiday and not a walking one, and his decision proved to be a good one,
not just on The Oa, but also when Andrea, Chris and I later went for a walk
along the white sands of Machir Bay (where we carried out an impromptu beach
clean). On each occasion, when we returned to the car, windswept but happy,
Terry had seen – amongst other species – a number of golden eagles, a hen
harrier, and even a kestrel (an extremely rare bird on Islay). We *weren’t*
jealous at all…
Loch Gruinart is a more managed site
compared to The Oa: there’s a small visitor centre, with displays and leaflets,
toilets, and a tea/coffee/hot chocolate machine – which we made good use of on
a couple of occasions. We timed our two visits to coincide with dusk, hoping to
see the choughs come in to roost, and we weren’t disappointed as these
gregarious, noisy birds flew into and onto the barn where they spend their
nights. We were also fortunate to observe three brown hares interacting (it’s
that time of year, folks). From ‘chough roost’, it was just a short drive to
the estuary where the island’s 37,000 barnacle geese fly into roost each winter
evening – what a sight and sound!
Debra Williams